On Tuesday afternoon around 3ish Terri and Jacob arrived from their long drive from Reykjavik. Terri had just landed that morning. Jacob took the northern route which was faster and just as beautiful and Terri got to enjoy the landscape and nap from time to time. Once they arrived we walked over to visit Gerdur´s store and have some coffee and cake and to talk and then we left from there and went straight to the Tjárhús for dinner. We just cannot get enough of that place. It was a good dinner a little salty but charming as always.
On both Wednesday, Thursday and Friday we had our regular schedules, Zelia in Dagmamma, work and school, visits to Gerdur´s store, dinner, bed and visiting. On Thursday night we had Gerdur, Gisli, Tómas and Katrin Maria over for dinner, Indian chicken it was! Gerdur brought over her rhubarb pie and other dessert from the store. Then on Friday night we had Bruce over for dinner, he was Jacob´s professor in Reykjavik, from Scotland. We had thai panang fish curry, ate outside in the sun and headed to Tanja and Astrid´s for a little party. Zelia slept downstairs outside and we had a nice visit. Met a guy named Brandon who writes for Lonely Planet and actually spent the next 2 evenings asking him many many questions about his job and the places he had been. Super interesting!
On Saturday, after breakfast we headed to Þingeyri for the Viking Festival. Unfortunately the weather wasn´t very good but it was so fun to really walk around and see the town. It is very cute! We weren´t sure where to go so just began walking, Zelia insisted on pushing the stroller. We found a place with some people and wondered in to find beautiful clothing made my Gaga, http://gaga.is/, I actually don´t think that this website does what we saw justice. It seems very inspired by viking design and there were pieces you would hang on a wall. Every little detail was cared to including the wood price tags. We continued on through a recreated Viking village which was surrounded by a beautiful wall made of layering grass and rocks, it was so natural and would come in and out of the hills, really very beautiful.
Jacob´s classmate Þórir lives in Þingeyri and is very involved in this festival so we thought we would try to find his house and also the advertised supa í Gardi, soup in the garden. Turns out it was all the same place. We walked into a beautiful backyard, with trees and bushes and an amazing compost pile to find people milling around a deck drinking soup, some people dressed in old viking dress and a small group under three trees making flatkökur on a fire. The Viking dress is really nice, long dresses as one layer and then another woven woollen dress over it, mostly earthy muted colors, handmade leather shoes and jewelry on the straps of the dresses. Some of the men wore wool felted shirts and wool blankets wrapped around them for warmth. Þórir´s wife does all sorts of handwork and hand dyes her own yarn, so of course I bought a few skeins and showed them to Gerdur.
Once we left the garden we headed down to a little blue tent by the church that had a little market inside, baked goods like pönnukökur, rugbrauð (sweet rye bread), fresh waffles, coffee, rhubarb jam and cream, wool sweater and socks and other things. We had a bite, bought some socks and just enjoyed the atmosphere as Zelia slept soundly in the middle of the tent in her stroller along with other babies in a row.
We headed back and at 6:30 Brandon came by for a drink, then Bruce and then we all headed to Edinborgh for the Saltfish festival. We waited an hour before dinner was served and then there was a feast. Two kinds of plokkfiskur, one made with a lot of basil which was delicious. Then there were 6 dished all made from salt cod, one covered in octopus, another in lime and cream, some in chili and olives and our favorite – raisins and pine nuts. Of course there was bread and butter and salad as well. There was also a jazz band playing and Zelia loved listening to them, was really mesmerized and even danced a little. It was a great day.
Sunday was absolutely beautiful when we woke, sunny and warm. After a big breakfast I went out for a good hard hill run and by the time I returned Jacob and Terri had made a plan to take a boat to Hesteyri in the evening. We laid low for the rest of the day enjoyed the weather and walked around while Jacob did some work. Terri and I went to the maritime museum in town. I really don´t like museums very much but this one was perfect for me, little, very clear information, and a place to try brenevin (liquor), hárkárl (the shark) and hárfiskur (dried fish), some people were taking plenty! Some of the kids in town work at the museum and were dressed in old Icelandic garb (not viking clothes) and put on a little performance including some singing which was really beautiful.
Packed with food for Zelia we headed to the small boat Harbour with Jacob and waited for the boat to come. Luckily, our friend Albertina was the tour guide. I stayed outside the whole time as I don´t do very well in boats and part of the ride over was a bit rough, but gorgeous. Then we arrived in Hesteyri about an hour later. This place is hard to describe, you´ll have to wait for me to get the pictures up. It is an old village on the peninsula Hornstrandir, that was abandoned in 1952. The homes are all owned by the families and they are used as summer houses. There is a cemetery, a school, the doctor´s house and maybe 4 others and not far from the village there used to be an old whaling station, that later became a herring station. Once those two things stopped there was little the inhabitants could do to stay. The entire area was covered in wild flowers, angelica, thyme, orchids! On one section there were several tents of people traveling. We heard about the town and its history and then walked around. Zelia had so much fun walking outside among the flowers, eating her craisins and being free. Why would anyone leave this place????? It´s all Jacob and I could ask ourselves the entire time. There was a rushing river flowing into the sea and a beach filled with rocks. We ended at the doctor´s house where we were given coffee, pönnukökur, cake and rugbrauð with Kæva (liver pate) – Zelia loves it and she loved eating the beets that were sliced on top!
The ride back was calmer and we saw several puffins on the water – my first!!!!!
Back at home we had a fresh salad and some chickpeas and headed to bed. What a fantastic weekend.
Terri left on Monday morning for Reykjavik after a short delay in ‚isafjörður and made it home safely. The week here has continued uneventfully although sadly today is Zelia´s last day with Harpa. We have not found another babysitter yet which is a problem but we are working on it. We will go back to Harpa in the afternoon to say goodbye and to celebrate her daughter, Hjortis´, 1st birthday.
This weekend we are heading to camp for two nights on the red sand beaches near Látrabjarg – the bird cliffs where we will see thousands of puffins and other birds. Hopefully some friends will join...will report when we return.
Experiences of a Jewish family living first in Isafjordur and then in Skagastrond, Iceland. In September 2008, my husband,our 7 month old daughter, Zelia, and I came to Isafjordur. Jumping in with both feet, we have discovered not only a beautiful, but warm and welcoming place. Now an employee of the Marine Research Institute studying seals and lumpfish, we are thrilled to be back in Iceland! This time we brought our dog Jack and in August we welcomed Lazer into our lives.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Back in Swampscott








Zelia and I arrived on Friday afternoon and were picked up at Logan by Ima and Aba. Zelia had slept for the whole flight but was awake and curious as we drove to the house. Right away we got to see Baki, Angie, Lily, Lucy, Topper, Lauren, Ian and Mama Z!!!!!! What a treat. After a delicious dinner of Panamanian meat pie we headed to bed tired and satisfied.
Not surprisingly, Zelia and I were up at 6am ready for the day, at least it wasn´t 4am! Although, even more surprisingly we were not the first ones up, but Baki and Angie had already taken turns going out for a run. Then Baki went out and got fresh bagels from Bagelworld, yummmmmm. We spent the day hanging around, trying on clothes (yes Lauren and Ima went and found me an outfit to wear to Sarah´s wedding), returning some things and looking for others. The best part was getting out with Lauren and Angie for some shopping and a pedicure – what a treat!!!!! Thank you Angie Then in the afternoon we began getting ready and Zelia looked smashing in the dress Mama Z brought for her. We drove to Beverly in the rain to the wedding, mud and puddles everywhere we got into the house and enjoyed seeing everyone as we waited for the ceremony to begin. We also enjoyed taro chips and iced tea – Zelia loved the chips and I didn´t realize that they bleed their color!!!! Ahh, all over my white pants and sweater. After a lovely ceremony, Sarah looked beautiful in her dress, we scavenged the hors d'oeuvres and drank some j´suise wine – check out the link on the side of the blog. Sarah and Oren make it themselves. Zelia was beginning to feel at home and was wondering around having a blast. When it was time for dinner we all moved outside under the tents to sit at long tables covered with burlap table clothes – totally adorable and had a bbq feast! Zelia didn´t join us for even a minute but was walking back and forth between the tent and the house, taking anyone´s hands who gave them to her and sitting on the windowsills
The next day, when we finally made it out of the house we piled into 3 cars and headed to the Children´s Museum!!!!! Of course the first day of summer vacation was rainy and the line was long, but once we got in it was a blast. Bubbles, golf balls, climbing structures, hair salons, construction sites, sewage tubes, building areas – we saw only a fraction of the place and even played after lunch before heading home and sleeping in the car. Everyone did so well for such a long time. It was so much fun to watch Lily work meticulously building and see Lucy and Zelia crawling around in the tubes. Sadly, the New Jersey Cheathams left early on Tuesday morning. Thankfully Lauren, Ian and Utah were staying until Thursday morning. Also, we got to see Laura, Rebecca and Noa, all looking beautiful.
On Wednesday Lauren, Ian, Zelia and I met Kathie at A&J King where we enjoyed coffee, chai lattes and sticky buns...the best. I put in an order to pick up on Friday morning and fly to Iceland for Jacob. Kathie, Zelia and I walked around Salem, visited the knitting store and then headed to the little children´s museum there. It was run down and small but Zleia had a blast playing in the fire engine and seeing Kathie. Ima, Lauren, Mama Z and Ian were all at the mall trying to find Lauren new clothes for her grad school adventure – woohoo!
I have to mention that the entire time Zelia was asking to go home, saying baita, baita. She would look for Daddy, find him in pictures and walk around with them and kiss them. When Jacob called she would listen to his voice and ask for him on the phone. It was very sweet and a little sad to watch. One of the days I was telling someone about her saying baita for home and she was clearly listening. The next morning she looked at Ima and said baita, when she didn´t respond, she said home....so sweet.
That night we had a feast! Mama Z treated us to a rib roast and it was delicious!!!
On Thursday we had a special visit from Melissa, Annabella, Rose and Lucas for lunch. What a wonderful family. Then later in the afternoon, Jocie, Theo, Sammie, Max, Hallie and Terri came for dinner of aroz con pollo. Sammie and Zelia had so much fun playing in the yard, sliding on the slide and driving in the little cars, Max has a blast playing with Max and Jasper next door and Theo was mowing the lawn. After a full day, Zelia was asleep in her stroller and I enjoyed a gin and tonic with Anthony and Rick.
Friday came and I could not believe that we were leaving that day. Fortunately it was the one warm and not rainy day! I had some last minute errands and packing to do and then my parents were having 50 people from the synagogue over for dinner!!!!! The rest was a whirlwind! People came, Zelia napped, we visited with and chatted and before I knew it we were out the door and in the car with Ima and Mama Z and I had not said goodbye to Aba – terrible! He had even made me a hamburger to take on the plane! Zelia had been feverish for 2 days so with tylenol and advil in hand we were off. Of course once at the airport my bag was SO heavy they wouldn´t accept it. So we repacked into the backpack and took only what I really needed on the plane and sent 2 bags through – always something.
Zelia slept almost the entire way and Jacob picked us up nice and early. Oh, I bought some wine and brenevin in the duty free when I got in and after finding Jacob the wine bottle fell and broke making a big mess in the terminal. A man went to get us some help and then told Jacob to go and knock on the door to customs, tell them what happened and that they would allow him in and get him another bottle!!!! REALLY?????? Apparently so, because after 10 minutes out he came with a new bottle of wine – unbelievable.
Zelia was so excited to be with her daddy again, took his hand and cried when he went to the bathroom.
Back in Reykjavik we were staying at Sigga´s place (she is the program director of the program). We were supposed to fly out that evening but it was too much so we stayed another 2 nights with Jacob, enjoyed the pool, walked around the city with new friends who moved to Reykjavik from Seattle (but are from Argentina and Ecuador) and just got to be together.
On Monday morning we flew to Ísafjörður and headed to dagmamma and work. On Tuesday afternoon Jacob and Terri arrived after a long drive...
Monday, July 6, 2009
Dennis and Riri´s (Marie) Visit





I have so much catching up to do on the blog I have to rack my brain to think about where I left off. Aha, Dennis and Marie´s visit to Iceland. What a great trip!
We picked them up on Wednesday night at the airport, dropped them at their hotel and then met them at our house for a drink with Gisli, Gerdur and Tomas. We were on our way to the Tarhouse for a delicious meal. Hey, when the best restaurant in town, maybe Iceland, is open only in the summer you have to go as much as possible. It was a long dinner which began with a fish soup (I think more of a bisque) that had fish and shrimp in it. We ordered three fresh fish: spotted wolf fish, monk fish and halibut. Basically they bring you a list of fish and tell you which ones they have that day, which means they were caught that day! And then you wait and the chef prepares them as he chooses and they come out in large pans and put on the table. The first fish we had, the wolf fish, was served in a sweet chili sauce, The halibut was pan seared and the monk fish was served in a creamy mushroom sauce. Each dish also had little potatoes, tomatoes and some salad in the pan. It was really delicious. That night there were also cakes for desert, so we had several, rhubarb, chocolate and, hmmmm, I forget.
On Thursday morning Jacob had Zelia for an hour while I worked and then I took her. We decided to go for a walk into town and figured eventually we would find Dennis and Marie. As we walked past the bakery, Marie ran out to get us. So we all had some coffee and a bite together. As they went to get their things together I bought sandwiches for the road and a bananareluterta ( a cake they make that I had been wanting to get for a while!). Back at the house, we waited for Jacob to finish class and we walked around some more. Once Jacob finished, we packed the car and headed to Gerdur´s store for a coffee and ponnukokur with whipped cream and rubarb jam – delicious! And we hit the road. We drove south, through Þingeyri to Dynjandi waterfall, where we got out, ate lunch and hiked. It was a very nice day out and we could look out over the fjord. Then back in the car we went over a large pass and got to Flokalundur, the hotel at a nature reserve. After checking in and putting on our bathing suites we headed to find the hot pot on the beach. It was fabulous – not as hot as we would have liked but what a view!!!! Zelia took to Riri right away and was having so much fun looking for her and holding her hand. It was still touch and go with Grandpa.
Back at the hotel and showered we got ready for dinner. Nothing very good, but it was food. Zelia was asleep for some of it, but eventually woke and joined us. After dinner we went into the lounge to eat our special desert. At one point Jacob mentioned banana and Zelia said – anana- slid off my lap and walked toward the kitchen. Jacob went with her and they came back with a banana, which she promptly ate! Hah! We eventually fell asleep in the bull daylight. Jacob and Dennis woke early and headed to a lake to do some fly fishing. Once Zelia and I woke and showered we played outside, it was a REALLY beautiful sunny day. Jacob came back with a beautiful char!!! We had breakfast together and continued our drive, heading to Reykjavik. On the way we stopped at a little gas station and market where Jacob graved his char so that there would be gravlax for breakfast the next morning. The drive is certainly long and we were all very happy when we finally arrived at the guest house! We rented a great 2-bedroom apartment and after settling in heading out to Laugarvegur, the large shopping street so that Dennis and Marie could get a look, we would could walk off long drive and eventually find some dinner. Zelia enjoyed walking most of that time, through the crowded street We walked into a few really great boutiques and checked out the Icelandic designs and then we ended up eating at an Italian restaurant and it was delicious. Once back in the apartment we hing out, watched Zelia be a goof sitting in the bookshelf and were just able to relax and hang out.
In the morning we were able to do the same thing which was perfect. Eat some gravlax and eggs and yogurt and muesli, sit around, pack up and head to the Blue Lagoon!!!!! Wow, even my third time was fabulous. I just love it there. We spent about an hour or so in the water wondering around looking for the hot spots. Chatted with some Americans and then tried to find some food. Dennis, Marie and I really wanted to have something more than a sandwich since there is no food served on the plane. We ended up driving through the lava fields to a town which was clearly the American officers base. The streets were wide, there were lawns and American looking houses. We stopped at a gas station/grill and had what turned out to be some very good fish and chips, bought some sandwiches for the flight and headed to the airport. It was so nice to not have to fly alone. We hung out in the airport did some shopping and were on our way. Luckily a very nice man moved so that we could all sit together. Zelia had a blast playing with Riri and even sat on Grandpa´s lap!!!! Then she slept for the second half of the flight.
It was a great trip – come back soon!
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Monday, June 8, 2009
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Sjomanndaggin
It was a great weekend here in Isafjordur, mostly because Jacob had no work to do and we could fully enjoy the weekend together. We enjoyed some delicious cod from my catch on Thursday. I cannot explain how much better the cod is when it is this fresh, the meat has a totally different texture!
We woke on Saturday morning, ate some breakfast and headed out the door to our garden. Zelia was ready with her tools and ready to get dirty. We succeeded is preparing and planting a third of the garden with cauliflower, parsnips, kale and cabbage and it was time to head home for some luncha dn to put Zelia to sleep. The garden is surroiuned by many rhubarb plants so we have been brining stalks and stalks of it home. After hanging out at home and helping with many cover letters we headed to Sudureyri. This weekend was a special weekend that celebrates the fisherman and in some vilages it is the most celebrated day of the year. ther was not a lot happening in Isafjordur, some in Sudureyri and the most in Flateyri (at least in the closer areas). The fishing boats were taking people out into the fjord, the rescue teams were out showing off their talents and in some places kids were having all osrts of competitions and games. Anway we went to the fish factory in Sudureyri to walk through it and then to a fish tasting in town for dinner. In between the two events we went to a little park and Jacob and I laughed, we are not fans of over protective parenting but the boat in the payground was in such bad shape with rusty nails and holes in the bottom and shards of wood....even we said we woulnd't want Zeia playing there. We got to eat some Steinbiter, wolf fish and some flat fish. Zelia fell asleep on the way home and we got to work in the garden for another hour.
In the mornings it has been cloudy but, yesterday the clouds burned off by mid-day and the sun was shining well past bed time. today it was cloudy most of the day and we did get to go to the garden again. This time Zelia had less patience for it than yesterday so she and I went to the payground where she had a BLAST! These two adorable 8 year olds, Nicola and Solveig (isn't that the best name???? silent G) played and played with her, on the slide, on the swing, carrying her everywhere. It was so much fun to watch.
Zelia ia home this week as Harpa is on vacation, then she will have 4 days next week and then we are off to the US...crazy.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
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